Cheap eats are clustered around the Mercado Municipal and close to the highway, near Calle Doblado. Try any of the loncherías near the market (6 A.M.–6 P.M. Mon.–Sat., 6 A.M.–4 P.M. Sun.). Or order tortas and comida corrida at Mi Cocinita (Gonzales, south of the 1 de Mayo bakery, tel. 624/142-6660, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. Mon.–Sat., mains US$5), a cute place with plastic tables and floral tablecloths. The staff here speaks English.

At Taquería Erika (Doblado at Mexico 1, no tel., lunch and dinner daily), where two tacos al pastor cost about US$2.50. Longtime favorite Taquería Rossy (tel. 624/145-6755, tacos US$1) is on the other side of Mexico 1, near the light for Calle Pescador.

Adventurous eaters should head to Taquería El Ahorcado (Pescadores and Marinos, tel. 624/172-2093, 6 P.M.–midnight Tues.–Sun., mains US$5–10), in the Chamizal neighborhood across Mexico 1, for beef-tongue tacos and a full menu of creative quesadillas. It’s known among gringos as The Hangman and is famous for its eclectic decor. Bring your own beer and enjoy live music while you dine.

In the same neighborhood, Guacamaya (no tel., dinner daily, mains US$8–12), off Calle Doblado, on the north side of Mexico 1, is under new ownership. Hopefully, its mouthwatering tacos al pastor, carved from a rotisserie spit and served with the signature toss of a pineapple slice, will stay just the same. Huge stone bowls filled with flank steak and avocado were a super deal for about US$7.

Near the bus terminal, Taquería México (González s/n at Profesores, Col. 1 de Mayo, tel. 624/128-8953, 1 P.M.–close Mon.–Fri., 4 P.M.–close Sat.–Sun., mains US$4–12) draws a crowd of local gringos for lunch under a large palapa roof with at least a dozen ceiling fans that keep the air moving on warm days. Sit at plastic tables and chairs beside a busy street and order a plate of tacos or a super burrito, Mexican-style hamburger, papas rellenas, or an entire huachinango (red snapper). This restaurant has a few large round tables that work well for a large group.

When the sun goes down, a handful of street carts roll onto Plaza Mijares. The longest line tends to form at Tamales Doña Nina. Order them de pollo with salsa verde or de rajas (chile) with cheese. Don’t miss the sweet rice for dessert. Empanadas, tacos, and cups of elote (corn kernels) dusted with chili powder and a squeeze of lime are also popular evening fare.