Sierra de la Laguna
Miraflores
A 2.5-kilometer (1.5-mi) paved road to Miraflores branches west off Mexico 1 at Km 71 next to a Pemex station.
This ranching and farming community is known for leatherwork; CurtidurÃa Miraflores (Miraflores Tannery), just off the access road between the highway and town (look for a small sign reading Leather Shop on the north side of the road), sells handmade leather saddles, bridles, whips, horsehair lariats, and other ranching gear, as well as a few souvenir items such as leather hats, belts, and bags, and the occasional bleached cow skull.
Owned and operated by the Beltrán family, the tannery is particularly known for its rustic ranch saddles. One saddle may use up to eight cowhides, each tanned in the traditional sudcaliforniano manner with local palo blanco bark and powdered quebrache, a reddish-brown, tannin-rich extract from a type of dogbane tree grown on the mainland. Saddle frames are fashioned out of local woods—ciruelo, copal—or cardón skeletons. Custom orders are accepted.
The curtidurÃa also sells engraved knives made from salvaged car springs—a source of particularly strong metal for knife blades—and sheathed in handtooled leather.
The town’s Casa de Cultura has been completely renovated, and it now contains a collection of modest displays chronicling local history.
Miraflores honors the Virgin of Guadalupe as its patron saint, so Fiesta Guadalupana (December 12), celebrated throughout Mexico, is especially fervent here.
Well past the tannery, after you’ve crossed an arroyo and are just getting into the center of Miraflores, a large hedge of bougainvillea nearly obscures the open-air, palapa-roofed Restaurant Las Bugambilias, to the left on a small side street off the main road. All manner of inexpensive, bajacaliforniano-style antojitos are available here from morning till evening.
Restaurant Miraflores, next to Mini Super El Nidito near the market and plaza, makes good tacos with shrimp, fish, or beef.
Several mercaditos in town provide local produce and machaca.
by Joe Cummings and Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 7th Edition, © Joe Cummings and Avalon Travel