East Cape

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The promise of calm seas, steady winds, and abundant game fish lures many adventure-seekers away from the resorts of Los Cabos to the remote beaches and rocky points of the East Cape—and increasingly also to the traditional ranchos and freshwater springs hidden deep in the mountainous interior.

Some of Baja’s prettiest and most secluded beaches line the Gulf coast between Bahía de las Palmas and San José del Cabo, at the southern tip of the peninsula. And along this stretch, the opportunities for deep-sea fishing, windsurfing, kiteboarding, kayaking, and scuba diving are among the best in the world.

The region contains a few larger towns, such as Los Barriles, Santiago, and La Ribera, but for the most part, civilization consists of tiny fishing villages alternating with newer gringo enclaves.

The vibe is low-key and in many places, the lifestyle is still off the grid, with dirt roads, palapa-roof bungalows, solar power, and satellite-only Internet and phone service.

Coastal development began to accelerate rapidly around the year 2000 and continues along the entire coastline, although the global recession has slowed or stalled most of the larger-scale development efforts. Propriedad Privada signs line both sides of the coastal road, but many of the spec homes sit empty and prices for lots have dropped substantially. Once you find access to the sea, the beach still feels pretty secluded.

In September 2006 Hurricane John made landfall at Bahía de los Frailes, causing severe wind and flood damage. Although roofs and roads took a beating, the towns in its path had mostly recovered by year-end.

The East Cape, particularly along the Camino Costero Rural, became the center of several large land disputes during the spring and summer of 2007, though by now many have been either resolved or forgotten, remnants of the uproar dot the landscape. Heavy barbed-wire fences, aggressive signage, and abandoned (and some still occupied) guards’ camps abound, lending a somewhat hostile look and feel to the area; the reality, though, has not changed, and visitors can still feel the same pervading sense of tranquility and isolation as has always been the area’s hallmark.

When you’ve had your fill of white-sand beaches and salty air, the Sierra de la Laguna beckons, with 2,100-meter peaks and cascading waterfalls. No longer the sole domain of experienced backpackers, parts of the range are doable in a half-day excursion, with or without a guide, depending on your comfort level with navigating networks of dirt roads and missing a turn here or there. The reward is a rugged part of Baja that few travelers even know exists.


The Best of East Cape

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