On Isla Navarino’s north shore, across the Beagle Channel from Argentine Tierra del Fuego, Puerto Williams is the so-called “Capital of Antarctica” and gateway to the rugged Los Dientes backcountry circuit, a difficult five-day slog through soggy mountainous terrain.

Local residents look forward to establishment of a permanent ferry link to nearby Argentina, but there is much political opposition across the channel because myopic Ushuaia impresarios fear losing business to tiny Williams—however unlikely that possibility.

Founded in the 1950s, formerly known as Puerto Luisa, the town (pop. 1,952) has paved sidewalks but gravel streets. Most of its residents are Chilean naval personnel living in relatively stylish prefabs, but there are also some 60 remaining Yámana descendents, only a few of whom speak the language—now a hybrid including many Spanish and English words—among themselves.

Getting There

DAP (tel. 061/621051), at the Centro Comercial, flies 20-seat Twin Otters to Punta Arenas (US$64) Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday April–October. The rest of the year, flights leave daily except Sunday. DAP flights are often heavily booked, so make reservations as far in advance as possible.

Regular connections between Puerto Williams and Ushuaia, on Argentine Tierra del Fuego, continue to be problematical, but hitching a lift across the channel with a yacht is feasible—for a price. For up-to-date information, contact the Gobernación Marítima (tel. 061/621090), the Club de Yates (tel. 061/621041, int. 4250), or Turismo Sim (tel. 061/621150). There are occasional charter flights as well.

In summer, the ferry Patagonia sails to Punta Arenas (38 hours) Friday at 7 p.m. Fares are US$150 in a bunk, US$120 for a reclining seat.