Sights

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For a small town, Puerto Deseado has plenty to see. The big draw is the Reserva Provincial Ría Deseado, but various historical monuments all have good stories behind them.

By the late 19th century, Deseado seemed destined to become a rail port, as authorities planned a northwesterly freight-and-passenger line to Bariloche. It never advanced beyond Las Heras, 283 kilometers northwest, and closed in 1977, leaving the stately Estación del Ferrocarril Patagónico (Eufrasia Arias s/n, 4–7 p.m. Mon.–Sat., free) as a surprisingly good museum staffed by former railroad workers.

Several monuments date from this era, most notably the railroad’s Vagón Histórico (1898), an historic railcar in a small plaza at San Martín and Almirante Brown. Immediately across the street, Banco de la Nación has preserved its classic lava-block style, but the supermarket that occupies the former Compañía Argentina del Sud (1919) has concealed its vintage details with hideous painted signs on all sides (pointlessly, as it has no competition in town). One block west stands the Sociedad Española (1915).

Along the waterfront, the Museo Regional Mario Brozoski (Brown and Colón, tel. 0297/487-0673, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. weekdays, 3–7 p.m. weekends, free) holds artifacts from the English corvette Swift, sunk nearby in 1770 and rediscovered in 1982. Several kilometers northeast, Balneario Las Piletas is a volcanic beach area where retreating tides leave pools warm enough for swimming, at least in summer.

At the north end of Almirante Zar, after passing beneath a railroad bridge, the road leads five kilometers into the isolated Cañadon Quitapenas and excellent camping sites (no services). Ten kilometers west of town, a southbound lateral leads to the Gruta de Lourdes, a secluded pilgrimage site where the faithful have left devotional plaques. Rare rainstorms produce ephemeral waterfalls here.

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Moon Travel Guides make independent travel and outdoor exploration fun and accessible. With expert and adventurous travel writers delivering a mix of honest insight, first-rate strategic travel advice, insider travel tips and an essential dose of humor, Moon Travel Guides ensure that travelers have an uncommon and entirely satisfying experience. Each travel book is filled with unique trip ideas, easy-to-use maps, and detailed information on sights, restaurants, and accommodations. Moon Travel Guides not only point you in the right direction, they inspire new ideas and adventure. Whether you are seeking a relaxing beach trip to Hawaii, or an adventure travel trip to the rainforests of Costa Rica, Moon guidebooks—and Moon.com—are with you every step of the way. Founded in 1973, the Moon Travel Guides series includes Moon Handbooks, Moon Outdoors, Moon Metro, Moon Living Abroad and Moon Spotlight travel books. Moon is based in Berkeley, California and is a proud member of the Perseus Books Group.