Los Alerces’s traditional excursion is the “lake circuit” from Puerto Limonao, at Lago Futalaufquen’s south end, to the Río Arrayanes outlet of Lago Verde; at Puerto Mermoud, a catwalk crosses to Lago Menéndez’s Puerto Chucao, where another boat continues to Puerto Sagrario.

From Puerto Sagrario, passing blue-green Lago Cisne, a looping nature trail goes to the El Alerzal grove and the landmark El Abuelo, the oldest and most impressive alerce specimen. While there are guides on the hike to and from El Abuelo, it’s possible to separate from the group; it’s not possible, though, to hike elsewhere in an area that’s mostly limited-access zona intangible.

It’s possible to start the excursion at either Puerto Limonao (US$43 pp) or Puerto Chucao (US$28 pp). Scheduled departures are at 9:30 a.m. from Limonao, returning by 6 p.m., and 11:30 a.m. from Chucao, returning by 4:15 p.m. Any Esquel travel agency can make reservations, but it’s possible to purchase tickets here on a space-available basis.