Gringos may cite the Gospel of Theroux, but Argentines know the train as La Trochita (a diminutive for “gauge”) or El Trencito (Little Train). The yards are still open, though only a couple of locomotives (an American Baldwin and a 1922 German Henschel) are in running order; the mostly Belgian cars date from 1922 to about 1960.

In summer, by reservation only, the train does a 2.5-hour excursion to Thomae (the first station south of Maitén) and back (US$20 pp) four or five times weekly in January and February; the rest of the year, it’s only once or twice weekly. For reservations, contact Grado 42 (Avenida Belgrano 406, El Bolsón, tel. 02944/49-3124, latrochita [at] elbolson [dot] org).

For current schedules, contact El Maitén’s Secretaría de Turismo (Avenida San Martín s/n, tel. 02945/49-5016, www.elmaiten.com.ar), near the railroad tracks, or Estación El Maitén (Carlos Pellegrini 841, tel. 02945/49-5190). The new platform is a welcome addition, and the old station has added a small but interesting museum (9 a.m.–7 p.m. daily, US$0.50). The nearby workshops are open 8 a.m.–2 p.m. daily.