US$10–25

The best nonhostel shoestring selection is frills-free but friendly Residencial Susy (Entre Ríos 528, tel. 0351/421-0819, US$16 s, US$24 d).

In a sprawling but worn Nueva Córdoba house with a secluded shady garden, the HI-affiliate Córdoba Hostel (Ituzaingó 1070, tel. 0351/468-7359, www.cordobahostel.com.ar, US$8–10 pp dorm, US$13–15 s, US$23–27 d, plus US$1 with breakfast) has amenities including kitchen and laundry facilities, lockers, Internet access, and a barbecue. Guests must pay a small extra charge for towels, however.

The Córdoba Backpackers Hostel (Deán Funes 285, tel. 0351/422-0593, www.cordobabackpackers.com.ar, US$8–13 pp dorm, US$26–32 s or d) is also an HI affiliate. It is comparable to Córdoba Hostel but more centrally located. Hotel Roma Termini (Entre Ríos 687, tel. 0351/421-8721, US$15 s, US$23 d, with private bath but without breakfast) is adequate.

In a neighborhood full of bars, it’s nevertheless surprisingly easy to sleep at Hostel Le Grand (Buenos Aires 547, tel. 0351/422-7115, www.legrandhostel.com, US$9–15 pp dorm, US$30–32 s or d), a large hostel with big rooms, some painted with multicolored murals, and excellent private baths (though some dorms have shared baths). There’s a big central patio for socializing and barbecues, and Wi-Fi reaches the rooms, but the breakfast is forgettable, some staff are clueless, and a couple are surly.

US$25–50

By current standards, Nueva Córdoba’s Hotel Gran Rex (Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 601, tel. 0351/423-8659, www.granrexhotel.com.ar, US$21 s, US$32 d, with breakfast) is an excellent value for its location and simple amenities such as cable TV and air-conditioning (US$3 extra).

On the pedestrian mall a block north of Plaza San Martín, improved Hotel Garden (25 de Mayo 35, tel. 0351/421-4729, US$25–36 s, US$29–40 d) has rooms with private baths and TVs and some rooms with air-conditioning.

In an upgraded deco-style building near the old railroad station, friendly Hotel Viña de Italia (San Jerónimo 611, tel. 0351/422-6589, www.hotelvinadeitalia.com.ar, US$29 s, US$41 d) has decent but smallish rooms with oddly decorative balconies (only windows, not doors, provide access). Its restaurant includes a wine bar.

US$50–100

Well-worn but also well-kept—some original wallpaper survives in surprisingly good shape—the deco-style Waldorf Hotel (Avenida Olmos 513, tel./fax 0351/422-8051, www.waldorfhotelcba.com.ar, US$40 s, US$55 d) has some rooms with balconies. They are also surprisingly spacious.

Hotel Felipe II (San Jerónimo 279, tel. 0351/425-5500, www.hotelfelipe.com.ar, US$52 s, US$66 d) is a popular three-star choice, though the common areas are more appealing than the retro-style rooms.

Half a block from Plaza San Martín, west-facing upper floors at the 110-room Hotel Sussex Córdoba (San Jerónimo 125, tel. 0351/422-9070, www.hotelsussexcba.com.ar, US$52 s, US$66 d) have the best views of any hotel in town. Its shadowy lobby is a misleading approach to a well-maintained, if aging, 1950s building.

A block south of Plaza San Martín, Hotel Cristal (Entre Ríos 56, tel. 0351/424-5000, www.hotelcristal.com.ar, US$38 s, US$49 d, with buffet breakfast) has fairly small but otherwise acceptable rooms. The single beds, though, are narrow.

Though the standard rooms are a bit cluttered, Gran Hotel Dorá (Entre Ríos 70, tel. 0351/421-2031, www.hoteldora.com, US$80 s, US$86 d, with buffet breakfast) is still a decent option. Executive rooms, which have terraces, are far more spacious.

West of downtown, Hotel de la Cañada (Marcelo T. de Alvear 580, tel. 0351/421-4649, www.hoteldelacaniada.com.ar, US$62–70 s, US$78–90 d, with breakfast) projects a progressive stylishness in materials—wood and brick—that’s lacking in most other Córdoba hotels. There’s a pool, a sauna, and other amenities.

Rooms at the professionally run Ducal Suites-Hotel (Corrientes 207, tel. 0351/570-8888, www.hotelducal.com.ar, US$67–83 s, US$83–102 d, with breakfast) are spacious and good. As it’s primarily business-oriented, management discounts prices by about 20 percent on weekends.

Over US$100

The Spanish-chain affiliate NH Panorama Hotel (Marcelo T. de Alvear 251, tel. 0351/420-4000, nhpanorama@nh hotels.com, US$101 s, US$119 d) has contemporary rooms with buffet breakfast and access to amenities like the pool, gym, and sauna. There are also more elaborate suites at higher prices.

The Windsor Hotel & Tower (Buenos Aires 214, tel./fax 0351/422-4012, www.windsortower.com, US$120–136 s or d) has adequate standard rooms in its older hotel sector, but the king-size beds in the more ample and comfortable 1998 addition are worth the additional cost. Guests in both sectors get the buffet breakfast and use of the pool, sauna, and gym.

The business-oriented Amerian Córdoba Park Hotel (Bulevar San Juan 165, tel. 0351/420-7000, www.amerian.com, US$132–150 s or d) is a full-service hotel with pool, sauna, gym, and buffet breakfast.

Rates at the Interplaza Hotel (San Jerónimo 137, tel. 0351/426-9800, www.corplaza.com, US$120 s, US$165 d) are an outstanding value for a five-star facility, but multinight discounts are an even better deal. Included are breakfast buffet, pool, gym, and similar amenities.

Córdoba’s first boutique hotel, the recycled Azur Real Hotel Boutique (San Jerónimo 243/257, tel. 0351/424-7133, www.azurrealhotel.com, US$169–254 s or d) was once a dormitory annex of the Colegio Dean Funes: Che Guevara literally slept here when he was not commuting from nearby Alta Gracia. The spacious interior rooms are virtually silent, but the smaller standard rooms facing the street get some noise despite the double glazing.

© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Argentina, 3rd edition