For most Buenos Aires visitors, Danish smørrebrød might seem an improbable alternative, but the Club Danés (Avenida Leandro N. Alem 1074, 12th floor, tel. 011/4312-5442) is both cheap and appetizing, with lunch specials in the US$8 range and exceptional views of Puerto Madero.
The city’s hippest and most adventurous pizzeria is garishly decorated Filo (San Martín 975, tel. 011/4311-0312, www.filo ristorante.com).
Inconspicuous Juana M (Carlos Pellegrini 1535, tel. 011/4326-0462) is a cavernous basement restaurant that serves beef and pasta dishes, with unlimited access to a diverse salad bar. While prices are rising, it’s still worth consideration, with a quick kitchen and friendly service.
Tancat (Paraguay 645, tel. 011/4312-5442) is a first-rate and wildly popular tasca, an informal Spanish bar (usually with hams hanging on strings from the ceiling and bottles of wine lined up along the walls). It offers good-natured service and lunches around US$8–15 pp; don’t miss the jamón serrano (cured ham) appetizer. Reservations are almost essential for the few tables, but lunchgoers can jam into the long wooden bar, backed by shelves of wine covered with business cards, posters, and photos. It’s open noon–12:30 a.m. Monday–Saturday.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Argentina, 3rd edition