Belgrano has many decent restaurants—the city’s Chinatown is here, and Chinese is the default option. Still, choices such as Contigo Perú (Echeverría 1627, tel. 011/4780-3960), in a cul-de-sac near the railroad tracks, are worth considering. Having grown from humble origins to become a neighborhood success and now something of a design restaurant, its prices have risen, though, and it has lost much of its former authenticity.

Recently relocated to Chinatown, Lotus Neo Thai (Arribeños 2265, tel. 011/4783-7993) is Argentina’s Thai pioneer and one of few places in the country where it’s possible to taste truly spicy dishes. Still with soothing music and lotus-themed decor, it’s now open for lunch as well as dinner; though it’s smaller than its former Las Cañitas location, the rooftop terrace provides extra space in fine weather. Lunches are a bargain at around US$10.

One of the city’s elite restaurants, the stylish Pura Tierra (3 de Febrero 1167, tel. 011/4899-2007, www.puratierra.com.ar) is expensive but worth the splurge for creative dishes prepared with the freshest local ingredients, such as bondiola (pork loin with fruit garnishes), and remarkable service (including one of the city’s most knowledgeable and communicative sommeliers).