In McCarthy, stay at the historic—built in 1916—
McCarthy Lodge (907/554-4402, www.mccarthylodge.com), the true heart and soul of the area. Friendly owner Neil Darish offers two divergent lodging choices.

Lancaster’s Backpacking Hotel (June–early Sept., $48 s, $68 d) has no-frills private rooms with twin beds (bedding included), shared baths, and a common area, but no kitchen.

Considerably more upscale is Ma Johnson’s Hotel (mid-May–mid-Sept., $129 s, $169 d), where the six bedrooms are furnished in period antiques and share three baths. There’s even an ATM in the bar.

Located near the end of the McCarthy Road, Kennicott River Lodge & Hostel (907/554-4441 summer or 941/447-4252 winter, www.kennicottriverlodge.com, mid-May–mid-Sept.) has a variety of pleasant lodging choices, all with access to a full kitchen, a common area with satellite TV, a shower house, and a large sauna. Coed hostel bunks cost $28 per person (includes bedding). Also available are lodge rooms ($70–90 d) and private cabins ($100 d plus $25 each extra guest).

Aspen Meadows of McCarthy B&B (907/554-4454, www.wsen.net/aspenmeadows) is two miles before the end of the McCarthy Road. Three basic cabins (one is an old trailer) share a bathhouse ($85–110 d) and are stocked with breakfast fixings.

Kennicott Glacier Lodge (907/258-2350 or 800/582-5128, www.kennicottlodge.com, mid-May–mid-Sept.) is a sprawling and spotlessly clean modern lodge five miles from McCarthy. The setting is graceful, with a long covered porch facing Root Glacier and the colorful mine buildings. Vacation package rates for guest rooms—which include three meals, transportation to and from McCarthy, and a tour of the ghost town—are $285–315 d per day in the main lodge (with shared baths) or $750 d per day in the newer south wing (with private baths). The à la carte rate (lodging and transportation only) is $169–199 d in the main lodge or $259 in the south wing. Be sure to request a room facing the glacier.

A half-mile from the end of the McCarthy Road, McCarthy B&B (907/554-4433, www.mccarthy-kennicott.com/mccarthybb, May–Sept., $110 d, $170 for 4 people) includes five small cabins with private baths, and a guest house ($200) with space for five. The rustic screened gazebo is stocked with breakfast items, and guests can also cook meals here.

Currant Ridge (907/554-4424 or 877/647-2442, www.currantridgecabins.com, mid-May–mid-Sept., $189 d plus $20 each additional guest), at Mile 56 on the McCarthy Road (2.5 miles from McCarthy), serves up six deluxe log guest houses with queen beds, full kitchens, and private baths.

Accessible only by air, remote Ultima Thule Lodge (907/688-1200, www.ultimathulelodge.com) sits along the Chitina River 50 miles southeast of McCarthy, with seven-day package trips that include a different adventure each day.

For the real Alaskan bush experience, the Park Service (www.nps.gov/wrst) maintains 13 free public-use cabins within Wrangell–St. Elias, most of which are accessible only by air.