Breakfast and Lunch

Corner Café (4th Ave. and State St., 907/983-2155, daily 8 a.m.–4 p.m.) is the local greasy spoon, with burgers and pizzas, plus reasonable breakfasts and fast service—if you don’t mind all the cigarette smoke. A better (smoke-free) bet is Sweet Tooth Café (315 Broadway, 907/983-2405, daily 6 a.m.–3 p.m.), with all-American breakfasts and lunches. Both Corner Café and Sweet Tooth stay open year-round; most other eateries close when the cruise ships flee to the Caribbean.

Other year-round places worth a visit include Glacial Smoothies & Espresso (336 3rd Ave., 907/983-3223) and Skagway Pizza Station (444 4th Ave., 907/983-2220, www.pizzastation.eskagway.com).

Dinner

Skagway Fish Company (907/983-3474, daily May–Sept.) is the tentlike structure near the cruise ship dock and facing the small boat harbor. The menu includes T-bone steaks, pork chops, barbecue ribs, oysters, and fresh salmon or halibut, but I recommend the halibut fish-and-chips ($15). The fish is locally caught, and it comes with a pile of fries and homemade coleslaw. There is good strawberry cheesecake too.

Skagway Inn (7th Ave. at Broadway, 907/983-2289 or 888/752-4929, www.skagwayinn.com) puts on a three-hour afternoon Alaska Garden and Gourmet Tour for $89 where you can watch chef and owner Karl Klupar prepare a delicious three-course meal that combines fresh garden greens and seafood.

Red Onion Saloon (2nd Ave. and Broadway, 907/983-2222, www.redonion1898.com, $8–12) serves surprisingly good pizzas, chili, and sandwiches in a historic setting.

Stowaway Café (907/983-3463, http://stowaway.eskagway.com, daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. late Apr.–late Sept.) is where locals (and tourists) go for good food in a harbor-side setting. There’s even a big deck for sunny days. The café specializes in seafood of all types—bubbly button Brie is memorable—but also serves everything from smoked ribs to steaks. Be sure to ask about the daily specials. Reservations are advised for dinner. Full dinners are $16–29, with lunches around $10.

Starfire Grill (4th Ave. and Spring St., 907/983-3663, Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 4–10 p.m. late Apr.–mid-Oct., $12–18) serves excellent Thai lunches, chicken satay, curries, pot stickers, soups, and pad thai. The express menu is great if you’re in a hurry.

Skagway Brewing Co. (7th Ave. and Broadway, 907/983-2739, www.skagwaybrewing.com, daily 10 a.m.–midnight May–Sept., daily 4 p.m.–midnight winter, $12–15) is far enough up Broadway to be missed by most cruise ship folks but close enough for locals and independent travelers. Of the 16 beers on tap, nine are made here, including a popular Spruce Tip Ale. Get a four-beer sampler for $7. The menu includes standard pub fare such as burgers, halibut fish-and-chips with hand-cut fries, and hot turkey bacon sandwiches. There is live music most Thursday nights.

Groceries

Fairway Market (4th Ave. and State St., 907/983-2220) is Skagway’s grocery store. Fresh produce arrives on Tuesdays and may be wiped out by the weekend. You Say Tomato (2075 State St., 907/983-2784) is a spendy natural-foods market with freshly baked breads and locally grown produce.

© Don Pitcher from Moon Alaska, 10th Edition