Accommodations

Find quaint cozy guest rooms (some with microwaves and fridges) at Ruth Ann’s Hotel (907/826-3378, $100–127 d), and a honeymoon suite ($147 d) that includes a private hot tub. Most rooms have Wi-Fi access. The guest rooms are across the street from Ruth Ann’s Restaurant.

At Inn of the Little Blue Heron (907/826-3608, www.littleblueheroninn.com), three guest rooms ($79–115 d) include private baths and fridges along with Wi-Fi. The back deck overlooks the boat harbor, and a continental breakfast is served. Also available is a new two-bedroom waterfront home ($295) that sleeps four guests.

Located above Wheelhouse Coffee Roasters, Water Street Apartments (907/826-2333, $135 s, $145 d) consists of three efficiency units with small kitchens and Wi-Fi.

Dreamcatcher B&B (1405 E. Hamilton Dr., 907/826-2238, www.dreamcatcherbedandbreakfast.com, $105 d) is a modern home with wraparound decks facing the bay. The three attractive guest rooms have Wi-Fi and private baths, and a continental breakfast is served.

If you have the money and like to fish, Waterfall Resort (907/225-9461 or 800/544-5125, www.waterfallresort.com) will put you in seventh (or eighth) heaven. Located on the south end of POW in a beautifully refurbished fish cannery, Waterfall is popular with the elite crowd. Pampered guests stay in tiny Cape Cod–style cottages along a remote stretch of coast and are treated to great fishing with a personal fishing guide, plus three sumptuous meals daily. It’s not cheap: Two people should be ready to drop $8,000 for three nights, but this does include floatplane fare from Ketchikan and all expenses.

Right in Craig, Shelter Cove Lodge (907/826-2939 or 888/826-3474, www.sheltercovelodge.com) has package lodging-and-fishing trips from a modern and comfortable lodge, starting around $2,650 per person for three days of fishing.

RainCountry RV Park (907/826-3632, $34) is on JS Drive.

Food

Meal prices are high on POW; your best bet may be to stock up in Ketchikan or at the grocery store in Craig, Thompson House (907/826-3394), which has a deli. The historic J. T. Brown’s General Store (907/826-3290) is a classic heart-of-town place with groceries, fishing gear, and other supplies.

For fresh-roasted coffees, espresso, and pastries—plus books, gifts, computer rentals, and free Wi-Fi—head to Wheelhouse Coffee Roasters (907/826-2333), across from the grocery store on Cold Storage Road. This is a fine spot to hang out.

Right next door in another historic structure is Ruth Ann’s Restaurant (907/826-3377, daily 8 a.m.–9 p.m.), a classy place with an old-time atmosphere. You’ll find good food three meals a day with a front-row view of the harbor. The diverse menu includes seafood, chicken, and steaks for dinner, plus burgers, salads, halibut, fish-and-chips, and sandwiches for lunch. Dinner reservations are advised if you want a window seat. The building also houses a popular but minuscule bar. Dinner entrées start around $14 and range up to $47 for king crab.

Also downtown is Dockside Café (907/826-5544, daily 5:30 a.m.–3 p.m.), with reasonable breakfasts plus tasty lunches and fresh-baked pies. Dockside opens at 5:30 a.m. and is packed with smokers for the first hour or so, although smoking isn’t allowed later in the day. Steak and eggs ($15) are the most expensive item.

Near the grocery store, Annie Betty’s Bakery-Café (907/826-2299, Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.–4 p.m., under $7) serves paninis, smoothies, ice cream, and espresso, along with homemade breads, cinnamon rolls, muffins, cookies, and doughnuts.

Craig’s fine-dining experience, Shelter Cove Lodge (703 Hamilton Dr., 907/826-2939 or 888/826-3474, www.sheltercovelodge.com, daily 4–9 p.m. mid-June–Aug., $23–28) has tall windows facing the boat harbor, and a dinner-only menu of fine seafood, steaks, ribs, pasta, and nightly specials.

Very good pizzas—including a pesto and artichoke version—can be had at Papa’s Pizza (907/826-2244, Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.), which also serves chicken and lasagna. Small pizzas start at $8 and range up to $21 for the family size.

© Don Pitcher from Moon Alaska, 10th Edition