South America Blog

Bulldozing El Desafío: "The Challenge" of Patagonia

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Over the course of thirty years’ travel in southernmost South America, I’ve seen nearly all the great natural sights, from Chile’s northerly Atacama desert to the Moreno Glacier and Cape Horn, and even the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Península. more >>

South Atlantic Highlights: Falklands 2013

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In last Sunday’s New York Times, the gray lady’s travel section listed its top 46 places to go in 2013 and, to my surprise, only one of those destinations was in the Southern Cone countries. Apart from the singularly curious number – why not the top 50? – even more surprising, on another level, was that the sole Southern Cone choice came not from Argentina, Uruguay or Chile. more >>

Modernizing the Subte

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For decades now, riding Línea A of the Buenos Aires Subte – Latin America’s oldest underground railway – has given its regular patrons and tourists alike the sensation of riding though history. Yesterday that became literally true, as municipal authorities shut down the line for two months and, when it reopens, the classic wooden Brugeoise carriages that have served the former Compañía de Tranvias Anglo Argentina (CTAA) will no longer roll atop the rails. With minor makeovers, those carriages had operated since 1913, so they fall just days short of a century. more >>

Decorating Walls: Murals of Buenos Aires

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Buenos Aires has 48 barrios, and their inhabitants often identify with their neighborhoods as strongly as New Yorkers do with their boroughs of Brooklyn, Manhattan or Queens. Most tourists visit only a handful of those barrios and, though I myself live in BA part of the year, I know only a few of them in any depth. Some are simply below the radar – I’ve never been close to Villa Devoto, which is infamous for its namesake prison – but over the years I’ve expanded my geographical horizons and, sometimes, I’ve simply stumbled onto surprising sights. more >>

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