South America Blog

Valparaíso's Historic Heritage: a Conversation with Todd Temkin (Part 1)

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Married to a Chilean, Wisconsin-born Todd Temkin is a Valparaíso resident and founder of the Fundación Valparaíso, which promotes the preservation of the city’s historic legacy, which is a political hot potato between developers and preservationists. Last March, I met him for an hour at the city’s Emporio La Rosa, a café occupying the former Café Riquet facing Plaza Aníbal Pinto (pictured above). Today’s lightly edited transcript of our conversation is the first of two parts, dealing primarily with background and the impact of the massive 2010 earthquake on the city. more >>

Tunnel Vision: Driving Northern Chile's Longino

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About a decade ago, in the northern Argentine city of Colón,
I encountered a pair of US cyclists who had traveled through Chile using my recently published first edition of the Moon Handbook to that country. They were especially enthusiastic about my recommendation about cycling the old railroad route through the Andean foothills, where slow-moving trains from Santiago’s Estación Mapocho once chugged all the way to the nitrate ports of the Norte Grande, including Iquique and Pisagua. more >>

Buenos Aires Bits: Freud, Implants, Romance & Tango

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Today’s entry covers a potpourri of Argentine topics.

Freud on the Pampas more >>

Patagonian Patter

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Today’s entry focuses on current topics in southernmost Patagonia, on both the Argentine and Chilean sides.

Calafate Rumbles
Large parts of Chile and Argentina, mostly along the northern and central Andes, are seismically active, as I experienced myself earlier this year. As a California resident, that doesn’t necessarily unnerve me, but it’s a little unusual to hear of strong seismic movements in southernmost Patagonia, where the popular destination of El Calafate has experienced several quakes over the past month or so, most recently on Sunday. more >>

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