South America Blog

Soccer Mafias: the Barras Bravas of Argentina

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Many times, I’ve mentioned that I find soccer, as a spectator sport, an exercise in tedium, best exemplified by the classic Buenos Aires Herald headline “Another Boring 0-0 Tie.” That puts me at odds with my nephews, who often threaten to take me to a match, but so far I’ve successfully resisted.

I feel differently, though, about soccer as a social and cultural phenomenon. I’ve enjoyed the Museo de la Pasión Boquense, which extolls the virtues of the Boca Juniors franchise, but that’s largely because of the museum’s success in portraying the barrio’s intense attachment to the team. Several times I’ve been in the neighborhood on game days, when blue and gold fashion statements reach saturation levels. more >>

Humpback Cruising in the Strait of Magellan

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In January of 2006, I took a short weekend voyage to the southwestern sector of the Strait of Magellan, on a small motor yacht better suited to the waters of the Río de la Plata (its previous home). Fortunately, for myself and the handful of other passengers aboard, the often choppy Strait was calm that day, and the Punta Arenas company Whalesound got us safely to Isla Carlos III, their base camp for viewing the feeding grounds of the southern humpback whale. more >>

In Argentina and Chile, Early Voting Begins

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Four years ago, shortly after Cristina Fernández first won election to the presidency of Argentina, Buenos Aires was still the site of election frenzy, as both Spanish and Italian politicians plastered walls, buses and utility boxes with posters for their European campaigns. Many Argentines have dual nationality in those countries, and are eligible to vote in their elections, and Italian dual nationals even have their own representative in Italy’s parliament. more >>

The Southern Cone at the Movies

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In 1986-7, spending a year-plus in the Falkland Islands on a Fulbright-Hays fellowship, I had a chance to visit the island of South Georgia on the RFA Sir Bedivere, a supply ship that reprovisioned the British Antarctic Survey mission there. The nine-day trip would have cost us US$400 each, which sounds like a bargain now, but it would have meant four days at sea in each direction and only one day there, with no guarantee of going ashore – that depended on sea conditions on arrival. more >>

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