Believe it or not, Havana has its own brewpub!

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Travelers to Cuba can tell you that, sure, the island is known for its rums, but it also produces some pretty good suds. Forget the watery lager called Crystal, which the government foists on tourists. I'm talking about the flavorful and richer Bucanero, plus regional beers such as Mayabe and Hatuey.

But for the best brew of all, you should head to Havana's Plaza Vieja, where tucked into the southwest corner you'll find the only brewpub in Cuba...and the only place in town serving draught beer.

In 2003, Habaguanex (the Cuban organization that operates all tourist enterprises within Old Havana) partnered with the Austrian firm Salm to open Taberna de la Muralla (San Ignacio #364, tel. 07/866-4453; open daily 11am-1am) , which opened in June 2003 in the former Casa del Conde de Casa Lombillo.

The microbrewery produces Pilsen (light) and Munich (dark). Both are delicious.

You can order half-liters (CUC2), liter steins, or a whopping three-liter dispenser, called a "dispensa." This tall glass cylinder is fitted with a tap and filled with beer kept chilled by a thinner center tube filled with ice.

You can savor your suds outside at heavy wooden tables on the covered patio or under a broad on the canvas umbrella cobbled plaza; or at wrought-iron tables indoors at the main bar, where the copper stills are displayed in, a 1913 Ford delivery truck sits in the middle of the room, and you can even admire artwork by such famous Cuban contemporary artists as Kcho and Nelson Domínguez.