Since RN 7’s southerly realignment, it’s longer (in distance) but shorter (in time) to Potrerillos, the upper Río Mendoza’s white-water rafting, kayaking, and river-boarding center. Now 53 kilometers from Mendoza—about eight kilometers farther than it used to be—Potrerillos (pop. about 300, elev. 1,351 meters) is growing because the Embalse de Potrerillos, a hydroelectric project, has relocated displaced people in sharp new houses with fine views and finer conveniences than they’ve ever had before.

Whether once-isolated rural people will prosper in their new village environment on an international highway is another issue entirely.

The road may be paved and fuel much easier to come by than in the early days of peninsular travel, but Baja California remains a classic route for travelers who enjoy the thrill of a long road trip. All you need is ample time, a reliable vehicle, and an ability to cope with unpredictable situations.

Orchards planted by the Jesuits in the 18th century continue to support the family that oversees the Mission San Borja today. Located in the foothills of the Sierra San Borja, the village makes an interesting side trip for leisurely travelers who want to see some high-altitude scenery or follow the Jesuit mission trail and who are equipped for off-road driving.

There are two ways to reach San Borja, and each is about 35 kilometers long. The better of the two heads east from Rosarito on Highway 1. It should take less than an hour to reach the settlement via this route. The second, rougher option departs from the paved Bahía de los Angeles at Km. 44 and takes about 90 minutes.

South of Mulegé, stunning Bahía Concepción represents the best of all that Baja has to offer. Its string of a dozen protected white-sand beaches, small islands, and steady winds create a water-sports playground for snorkelers, divers, kayakers, and kiteboarders.

The mouth of the bay faces north, and a long, narrow peninsula forms the eastern shore. As a national marine preserve, the bay supports a vibrant ecosystem of creatures big and small.

After winding its way over the Sierra de la Laguna heading southeast from La Paz, Mexico 1 reaches the Gulf coast once again at Los Barriles, more or less in the middle of the wide and exposed Bahía de las Palmas. The bay is roughly 32 kilometers long, extending from Punta Pescadero in the north to Punta Arena at its southern end.

Kiteboarding and Windsurfing

The powerful side shore winds at Los Barriles are best attempted by intermediate and advanced kiteboarders and windsurfers.

In the peak season, November–April, wind speeds frequently exceed 20 knots and rarely drop below 18 knots. Beginners can usually get in the water during calmer early morning conditions.

Instructors say windsurfers should know how to water-start or plan to take a lesson to learn how when they arrive. By 11 A.M. most days, the winds kick up a rolling swell (no breaking waves) that is fun for jumping.

Once a pair of quiet fishing villages, Bahía de la Ventana and neighboring El Sargento were discovered by windsurfers in the 1990s and kiteboarders soon after. In winter months when the powerful El Norte winds blow through the narrow Canal de Cerralvo, sailboards fill the bay—as well as the campgrounds that surround it.

Other times of year, the towns attract scuba divers/free divers, beachgoers, and sportfishing enthusiasts.

Though the area is best known for wind sports, there is an activity for just about every weather condition: Calm seas mean short boat rides and good visibility for snorkeling or diving; windy days are good for sails—or a hike. Big swells are an excuse to head to the Pacific side to catch some waves.

Windsurfing and Kiteboarding

Windsurfers discovered the ideal conditions at La Ventana in the 1990s, but in recent years, the rising popularity of kiteboarding has brought many more adventure-seeking travelers to the area. Kiteboarders say La Ventana is one of the best places in the world to learn the sport, because the shoreline of the bay curves around to catch those who drift downwind on white-sand beaches.

From November through March, the Sea of Cortez is a windsurfing and kiteboarding paradise, particularly along the East Cape. La Paz is also a very good area, even in summer, when a strong breeze called el coromuel comes in just about every afternoon. The best spots here lie along the mostly deserted beaches of the peninsula northeast of town—Punta Balandra to Punta Coyote. When nothing’s blowing in the Bahía de La Paz vicinity, dedicated windsurfers can shuttle west across the peninsula to check out the action at Punta Márquez on the Pacific side, only 72 kilometers (45 mi) away.

At the foot of ominously smoldering Volcán Villarrica, 25 kilometers east of the town of Villarrica via Ruta 119, Pucón (population 13,837) has gained a name over the past decade as the destination for hikers, climbers, mountain bikers, windsurfers, and white-water rafters and kayakers.