Since RN 7’s southerly realignment, it’s longer (in distance) but shorter (in time) to Potrerillos, the upper Río Mendoza’s white-water rafting, kayaking, and riverboarding center. Now 53 kilometers from Mendoza—about eight kilometers farther than it used to be—Potrerillos (pop. about 300, elev. 1,351 meters) is growing because the Embalse de Potrerillos, a hydroelectric project, has relocated displaced people in sharp new houses with fine views and finer conveniences than they’ve ever had before. Whether once-isolated rural people will prosper in their new village environment on a major international highway is another issue entirely.

Hiking, climbing, fishing, horseback riding, and rafting and kayaking are all on the docket. Argentina’s Río Corcovado is a Class II–III starter river, but the Class V Futaleufú, across the Chilean border, has world-class white water. For ski information, see La Hoya.

The road may be paved and fuel much easier to come by than in the early days of peninsular travel, but Baja California remains a classic route for travelers who enjoy the thrill of a long road trip. All you need is ample time, a reliable vehicle, and an ability to cope with unpredictable situations.

Whether you are already a pro or are picking up a paddle for the very first time, kayaks are a perfect way to experience Sea of Cortez marinelife up close. Whales, flying mantas, and sea turtles are just some of the creatures you might see from the surface. Throw on a mask and fins, and an entire world becomes visible below. Beach camping on uninhabited islands completes the experience.

Overnight trips can take a couple of days, a full week, or more; organized trips are an appealing option, especially for novices.

Challenging sea kayak routes include following the peninsular shore from La Jolla around to La Bufadora, or crossing over to the Isla Sur of the Islas Todos Santos. The latter is a fairly straightforward 6.4-kilometer (4-mi) paddle from Punta Banda.

At Rancho La Bufadora near the blowhole, Dale’s La Bufadora Dive Shop (tel. 646/154-2092, www.labufadoradive.com) rents kayaks for US$20 per half day, US$30 per full day.

Guillermo’s, La Playa, Villa Vitta, and Casa Díaz each maintain boat launches; they also rent pangas. The bay is protected by the 68-kilometer-long (42-mile-long) Isla Ángel de la Guarda, but strong northeasterlies set up a nasty chop on occasion. Make local weather inquiries before venturing any considerable distance from shore.

You can launch kayaks at the estuary for excursions into Bahía Santa Inés to the north or Bahía Concepción to the south. Most kayakers intending to paddle in Bahía Concepción launch farther south.

Experienced kayakers enjoy the well known Mulegé–Loreto coastal trip, a 135-kilometer (84-mi), five- to seven-day paddle. Because shore campsites are few and far between, you should attempt this route only in the company of someone who’s made the trip before.

From this point south to the Cape Region, the Sea of Cortez and its many bays begin matching the tourist-brochure description of a “desert Polynesia.” This huge bay, open to the north and sheltered on the east, has a string of sandy beaches along its west side and a number of small islands anchored in the middle—a perfect setting for anglers, small-boaters, kiteboarders, windsurfers, divers, and especially kayakers.

In fact, some say Bahía Concepción is the perfect kayaking destination. While many other Baja kayaking spots may be blown out several months per year, kayakers in Concepción typically lose less than a cumulative two weeks—spread out over a year—to high winds.

South of Punta Arena (entrance btw Km 114–115), is Playa Santispac, the largest and most popular beach. Tent and trailer camping next to shade palapas is available. The fee is about US$6 per vehicle whether you camp or not.

In recent years, this beach had become the most developed camping beach along the bay; however, the government required semipermanent residents to remove all structures in 2007, ostensibly to restore the beach to its former state, and perhaps to make it more appealing to future developers.

Around 2.4 nautical kilometers (1.5 nautical mi) southeast of Playa Coyote is the idyllic Playa Santa Bárbara, also known as Honeymoon Cove. This sandy, palm-fringed inlet is accessible only by boat and makes an excellent kayak camp for those paddling the bay circuit.