Beyond Bajo Caracoles, rugged RN 40 traverses the northern steppe until the point where, over millions of years, the Río Pinturas has cut a deep, scenic canyon. In the process, erosion has left countless aleros, stony overhangs often mistakenly called cuevas (caves). One of these is the Cueva de las Manos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where stencils of hundreds of human hands, guanacos, and abstract forms cover the walls in orange, red, and yellow tones.

The mountains northeast of San Ignacio hold some of the most spectacular prehistoric paintings found anywhere on the peninsula. It is for this reason that historian Harry W. Crosby described the Sierra de San Francisco as a “gallery of ancient art” and UNESCO designated the region a World Heritage site in 1993.

Getting there, however, takes some planning and a willingness to rough it in the backcountry for at least a couple of days. The Mexican government requires you to obtain a permit and hire a guide before visiting these sites, which you can do at the INAH offices in San Ignacio or La Paz. Then you’ll need to make arrangements to travel by mule, bringing your own food and water.

The largest concentration of rock art sites are located at the southern end of the Sierra de Guadalupe range, west of Mulegé. Hotels in town can arrange guided trips to the closest ones for US$35–45 per person.

La Trinidad

In a small canyon near Rancho La Trinidad, one wall remains of a cave that was once painted on all sides. The site is known for an image of a large deer painted in a striking orange-red color. The deer is filled with a checkerboard pattern, and beside it are two fawns. According to historian Harry Crosby, the deer represents a recurring theme in Baja rock art, and the one at La Trinidad is one of the best examples found anywhere on the peninsula.

Weddings, honeymoons, and anniversaries often inspire a quiet retreat. Sunset beach walks, couples’ spa treatments, shopping for fine art or jewelry, dinner by candlelight, and movies on the beach are just a few of the ways to celebrate the occasion. With swim-up bars, private soaking tubs, and full-service spas, several resorts along the Los Cabos Corridor excel in creating that intimate setting. Farther afield, bohemian Todos Santos adds a layer of art and culture to the romance.

Lazing on a beach or by the pool is all right, but some travelers crave a little more action. The Riviera Maya has plenty to offer active travelers, including scuba diving, kiteboarding, fly-fishing, kayaking, and bird-watching. This tour is a workout for the eyes, too, taking you to some of the peninsula’s most stunning (and little-visited) natural areas.

This 10-day tour includes an excursion to Isla Holbox, a windswept island north of Cancún where the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico meet, and is best visited during whale shark season (June–September).

Marked by an enormous mustard yellow arch on Highway 307, the “Cenote Route” is one of the newest developments along the Riviera Maya, and a sign, for better or for worse, that the megaresorts are finally starting to appreciate cenotes.

The route is simply a paved road, which begins just south of Puerto Morelos and extends nearly 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) into the scrub forest, passing several cenotes along the way. The most popular stops, at least for tour groups, are cenotes like Boca del Puma and Selvática, which also have ATV tours, zip lines, paintball…you get the picture.

Beaches

Akumal Bay—the one right in front of town—has a long, slow-curving shoreline, with soft sand shaded by palm trees. The water is beautiful but a bit rocky underfoot, and you should be aware of boat traffic when swimming or snorkeling.

Half Moon Bay also can be nice for swimming and snorkeling, but the shoreline is rocky in some places; consider wearing water shoes to help you ease into the water.

Hidden Worlds Cenotes Park

Although sometimes crowded, Hidden Worlds Cenotes Park (Hwy. 307 between Tulum and Akumal, tel. 984/120-1977, www.hiddenworlds.com, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily) is a great intro to underground snorkeling or diving, with a gorgeous on-site cenote system, frequent departures, and a staff that’s accustomed to first-timers.

Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar

The mid-18th-century Fuerte San Felipe Bacalar (central plaza, no phone, Av. 3 at Calle 20, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Tues.–Thurs. and Sun., 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Fri.–Sat., US$5) was built by the Spanish for protection against English pirates and Maya that regularly raided the area.

In fact, attacks proved so frequent—and successful—that the fort was captured in 1858 by Maya during the Caste War. It was not returned to Mexican officials until 1901.

One of the Yucatán Peninsula’s most intriguing features is its cenotes, large freshwater sinkholes. Cenotes owe their formation to the massive meteorite that hit the Yucatán Peninsula 65 million years ago, near present-day Mérida. The impact shattered the peninsula’s thick limestone cap like a stone hitting a car windshield.